From Pharmaceuticals to Cosmeceuticals. Why Consumers needs help
First, let me make it clear that the word “cosmeceuticals” is made-up.
As a pharmacist who has spent most of my career working in the pharmaceutical industry, my default approach to any product means looking at the ingredient and understanding what it is, how much of it is in there, what if any clinical studies have been done with this product. When it comes to any prescription medicines, there are high levels of regulations set by the FDA so that as a consumer, we know exactly what is in your prescription cream or pill. On the other hand, the world of “cosmeceuticals” is another story.
Ever since I got into skincare, I have been obsessed with understanding ingredients in over the counter (OTC) skincare, especially what works and what doesn’t. But I have been baffled to see how much work still needs to be done by the industry so consumers can select and use appropriate products that are specific to their skin type and lifestyle .
So what exactly is the difference between a “cosmetic”, which does not require FDA approval, and a “drug”, which does require FDA approval.
These are all excerpts directly from the FDA’s website
The FD&C Act defines cosmetics by their intended use, as “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body…for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance”
Under the FD&C Act, cosmetic products and ingredients, with the exception of color additives, do not require FDA approval before they go on the market. Drugs, however, must generally either receive premarket approval by FDA through the New Drug Application (NDA) process or conform to a “monograph” for a particular drug category, as established by FDA’s Over-the-Counter (OTC) Drug Review”
You may have seen many telehealth platforms getting popular in this COVID era, yet the concept of getting evidence based skincare education and regimen in this digital age is still so novel in the skin care industry. Skincare brands have started offering virtual skincare consults for their own products through zoom. A new online platform is striving to become the worlds first skincare expert platform using AI . Consumers can get connected to licensed estheticians who have joined the platform to offer virtual skincare consults and they can get professional skincare products delivered to their house. A curated regimen is created using proprietary algorithm that guides esthetician based on skin goals and data behind active ingredients in products. These are products typically found in dermatology offices. Licensed estheticians, many of whom have been affected by the current state of restrictions are now looking at ways to take their expertise outside of the treatment room.
“Neither the law nor FDA regulations require specific tests to demonstrate the safety of individual products or ingredients. The law also does not require cosmetic companies to share their safety information with FDA.”
As a doctor of pharmacy, I hope we can help bring science to the forefront of the beauty industry.