All you need to know about the one ingredient most dermatologists use themselves

When it comes to anti-aging ingredients in cosmetics that change the surface of your skin, there isn’t any other ingredient that has the amount of clinical data supporting like there is with Retinoids. So lets talk about this popular class of skincare products that is making a BIG BUZZ

What is it?

Topical Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives. Originally founded in the 1970s as a prescription treatment for acne, its skincare benefits have made this the gold standard of anti aging ingredient. Based on the structural features and reflecting the time of introduction, retinoids can be classified into various generations-

First generation includes tretinoin, retinol, retinaldehyde, isotretinoin, alitretinoin.

Second generation includes etretinate and acitretin.

Third generation includes adapalene and tazarotene.

Retinol Ester <> Retinol <> Retinal <> Retinoid Acid

OTC vs Prescription

Some of these are available over the counter such as retinol and adapalene in low strength.

Tretinoin, isotretinoin, tazarotene and high strength adapalene are only available with a prescription.

Some OTC “retinoids” use Retinyl Palmitate but the efficacy of this is questionable due to low absorption. We would avoid these because any product claiming to be a “retinol” that has retinyl palmitate as the active is not going to be very effective at diminishing wrinkles, improving collagen.

So the big question is why is this so popular and what are the clinical benefits?

1. Topical Retinoids fades actinic keratosis spots, pigmentation, and speeds the turnover of superficial skin cells
2. Reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen.
3. Stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin color.
4. Fading age spots and softening rough patches of skin.

Using Retinoids can be tricky, a 1:1 personalized skincare coaching with licensed estheticians can help you stick to your regimen and be confident. Some tips we would like to share

1. Start in your late 20s-early 30s with a low strength retinol. For sensitive skin, you can even start with a Retrinal (modified retinol) cream
2. Expectations are key to measuring success with skin care. Nothing happens overnight. So be prepared to have three to six months of regular use before improvements in wrinkles are apparent — and the best results take six to 12 months
3. Use only a small pea size amount for the entire face and neck. We encourage people to use it 2 times a week when starting off or every 3 days for 2 weeks. Gradually increase the frequency.
4. Do not simultaneously use benzoyl peroxide.

While Retinols are very effective, the #1 reason for consumers not seeing the full benefits is because of the side effects that can occur if not used appropriately. As skincare professionals, we educate our customers on the following:

1. Minor dryness and flaking is expected after a 1–2 weeks of use as your skin cells are starting to turn over. Exfoliating with AHAs once a week will help slough off the dead skin cell and work complimentary with the retinoid.
2. Usually you put moisturizer after retinoid as part of the regimen once its gets absorbed. But , If the skin feels very dry or irritated, mix retinoid with some moisturizer when apply.
3. Dont use if pregnant or nursing. Plant based bakuchiol is a great alternative those or for anyone who cannot handle any retinol.
4. Always wear sunscreen when using retinoids